Step‑by‑step restoration guide for composite doll heads using hide glue and shellac

Step‑by‑step restoration guide for composite doll heads using hide glue and shellac

Step‑by‑step restoration guide for composite doll heads using hide glue and shellac

The instructions are suitable for late 19th–mid 20th century composite and papier-mâché heads

STEP 1. Surface preparation

Dust removal

  • Use a soft brush or microfiber cloth.
  • No water, alcohol, or soap.

Degreasing

  • Use only 70% isopropyl alcohol or 50-70% ethyl alcohol.
  • Work quickly with a cotton swab, without soaking the substrate.
  • Do not touch the painted areas.

Damage assessment

  • Cracks (hairlines).
  • Chips and dents.
  • Lifting or delaminating layers.
  • Areas where the composite is crumbling.

STEP 2. Preparing hide glue

Classic conservators’ recipe for composite:

  • Granulated hide (animal) glue – 1 part
  • Water – 2 parts (for thinner work you can use 1:3)

Preparation:

  • Pour the granules into a glass jar.
  • Add water and leave to swell for 30-40 minutes.
  • Heat in a water bath to 55-60°C.
  • Do not boil: the glue loses its properties.
  • Keep warm in a bath of hot water.

STEP 3. Filling dents and material losses

Filler based on hide glue (conservation-grade):

  • 1 part warm hide glue
  • 3-4 parts fine wood flour or whiting (chalk)

How to make it:

  • Add the filler into the warm glue, bringing it to a paste-like consistency.
  • Fill the dent with a spatula or silicone tool.
  • Shape the surface immediately – once dry it is harder to work.
  • Dry for 24 hours.
  • Sand with fine abrasive paper 600–1200 grit or Micromesh.

STEP 4. Sealing the surface with shellac

Shellac is a traditional coating for old composite dolls.

Solution:

  • 10%: 10 g shellac in 100 ml 96% alcohol.
  • For very thin coats, a 5% solution is sometimes used.

Application:

  • Use a fine natural-hair brush or a cotton pad/tampon.
  • Apply a very thin coat.
  • Allow to dry for 1-2 hours.
  • If needed, apply 2-3 coats with light sanding in between (Micromesh 4000-6000).
  • Do not sand the final coat.

STEP 5. Toning and retouching (if needed)

  • For old dolls, use dry pigments with shellac, or watercolor/gouache over the shellac layer.
  • Tone very delicately to avoid creating “fresh” looking patches.
  • Fix the color with a final thin layer of shellac.

STEP 6. Final polishing

  • 24-48 hours after the last shellac coat, lightly go over the surface with Micromesh 8000-12000 or a soft cloth.
  • Work gently, without pressure, just to reduce dullness.

STEP 7. Drying and stabilization

Do not place near radiators and do not use a hairdryer for heating.

Full curing takes 3-5 days.